hope amico

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chasing waterfalls

me last week at silver falls oregon

I never thought about how often I travelled alone until I travelled with someone who had only travelled in groups—on tour, or on road trips with friends. I never thought of travelling alone as anything special—it was partly because I like travelling on my own time, at my own pace. I sometimes get so excited about a plan that I forget some the logistical troubles of travelling alone. Like the time I hiked to the bottom of a gorge, because I knew there was a very special swim spot under a waterfall. I had planned my roadtrip to include this spot and had already skipped it on a previous trip. Before the hike, park rangers explain the obstacles—a scramble across the river on rocks, a large smooth stone you must cross without wetting your shoes. I think the warnings were for people who might think this is a casual swimming hole and try to bring the while 4 generations of a family plus floaties for all. Another hiker later told me that when the ranger gave them the talk,each point was punctuated with:

“OR YOU WILL DIE.”

I initialed the permit and boopidy-booped down the 600 stair entrance to the trailhead. Halfway in, I realized how immensely stupid it was to be doing this alone. If I twisted my ankle, there was no way back but up the gorge or in a rescue helicopter. But I didn’t turn around (which actually would not have been easier anyway). I was careful and fine. I jumped into the pool at the base of the waterfall and floated looking up at the the gorge wall, which is my favorite favorite place to be. I met a pair of hiking buddies who helped me get my backpack across when I was done swimming and scrambled up the steep walls back to camp.

That is how I usually feel about travelling alone: blinded by adventure pausing at some point to realize I didn’t think things through.

By then it is often too late. I am in a hotel room in San Juan adjusting my derailleur and looking up bakeries for breakfast realizing I don’t enough cash. Or I am alone in my tent at a very secluded campsite (near another waterfall) and I swear I hear footsteps in the brush outside—it is drunk dudes from the next campsite or is it a bear? Or halfway into a solo hike appreciating the quiet around me and then momentarily concerned because no one knows where I am.

I never liked hitchhiking alone or sleeping in public spaces when on a bike trip. I always felt too exposed, but never brave enough to find a better spot. I never slept well and always got sick. But in the back of my truck in a campground, I mostly feel like a weirdo which is fine, that’s my life. I’ve slept alone in rest areas, hiked alone in other countries, travelled to cities where no one spoke english and I could not guess what any signs meant. I’ve done some stupid things. And I’ve had some really great times.

Last week I went to Silver Falls State park alone for 3 nights. Concussion recovery means I want quiet more often than I can get it. I feel like I can never drink enough quiet, always thirsty for more.. Driving still is tricky for me but it was about 50 miles, straightforward, and then I had a tiny cabin near an old growth forest to myself. I hiked, wrote, slept a lot. And missed my family. I like travelling alone. I like having my own slow schedule. I like eating from the same can of vegetarian baked beans for 3 meals. I like no one having to be on my schedule, no one waiting on me, and no one telling me I overplan.

This trip was a little like a writing retreat, a little like some time for healing. My partner and I had camping plans for 2 weeks after my injury but I was just too tired. We took a few brief day trips because I love swimming. I thought I was getting better enough for camping a month later but there was a 100 degree heat wave and it was cooler at our house. I can’t take care of others the way I used to, I can’t organize things and make sure everyone is packed or get up and make breakfast for everyone. I love to. I loved being in charge of meals when camping with friends. I love to plan and organize but it is exhausting . It is easier to travel alone sometimes. but not always what I want.

I like travelling and being alone and I am grateful for the family and friends who love me. I am grateful that the unearned confidence of my growing up white and middle class didn’t turn any of my trips into a tragic tv mini series. I am grateful to spend time in places where cars can’t be heard, or people, just two birds battling out the airspace.

one of my first solo trips, hiking in the grand canyon when I was 18.